Technology And Faq's

Choosing the right bicycle tire depends on several factors, including the type of riding you do, your bike type, and your personal preferences. Here are some factors to consider: Type of Riding: The surface you'll be riding on is one of the most crucial factors. For paved roads, choose slick or semi-slick tires designed for road bikes. For off-road trails, choose wider tires with larger treads designed for mountain bikes. For mixed surfaces, there are hybrid or gravel tires that can handle both pavement and dirt. Bike Type: The type of bike you have will dictate what size and type of tire you need. Road bikes typically take narrow tires, mountain bikes require wider ones, and each bike has specific tire size requirements (like 700c for many road bikes, 26", 27.5", or 29" for mountain bikes). Tire Width: Wider tires provide more traction and stability, making them suitable for off-road, winter riding, or when carrying heavy loads. Narrower tires are lighter and have less rolling resistance, making them faster on smooth surfaces. Tread Pattern: Smooth tires are best for road biking because they have less rolling resistance. Tires with larger treads are suitable for off-road biking where grip and traction are crucial. Puncture Protection: If you frequently ride in areas where punctures are common, consider tires with built-in puncture protection or tubeless tires that can be used with a sealant. Riding Comfort: Wider tires run at lower pressures tend to offer a smoother ride over rough surfaces than narrow tires run at high pressures. Price and Durability: More expensive tires often use higher-quality materials and construction methods, which can provide better performance and longer life. However, budget options can still be reliable and suitable for many riders. Remember that tire choice is often a compromise between factors like speed, comfort, grip, and puncture protection. Consider what aspects are most important for your riding style and conditions. If you're unsure, your local bike shop or tire manufacturer can provide advice based on your specific needs. At Hartex Rubber, we offer a wide variety of bicycle tires to suit different types of riding. Whether you're into road cycling, mountain biking, or city commuting, we have the right tire to meet your needs.

The correct tire pressure varies depending on the type of bike, the weight of the rider, and the riding conditions. Look for the recommended tire pressure range printed on the side of your tire.

The lifespan of a tire or tube can depend on a variety of factors, including the type of tire, riding conditions, and how well they're maintained. However, as a general rule, we recommend inspecting your tires for wear before every ride, and consider replacing road bike tires every 1,500-3,500 kilometres, or sooner if they're damaged.

Clincher tires are the most common type of bicycle tires and use a separate inner tube. Tubular tires, or "tubs", are a type of tire where the tube is sewn into the tire. These are often used in racing due to their weight and rolling benefits. Tubeless tires don't require an inner tube and instead form an airtight seal against the rim.

The most obvious sign of a puncture is a flat tire or rapid loss of air pressure. You may also hear a hissing sound when the tire is punctured.

We recommend checking your tire pressure before every ride. Air can leak out of the tire naturally, and riding with too little tire pressure can lead to flats and can damage your rims.

A higher TPI means that the tire casing is made up of many thin threads, which often results in a lighter tire with better flexibility and improved comfort. However, a tire with lower TPI may be more resistant to punctures and wear.

All tires lose air over time, but tubeless tires can lose air a bit faster, especially when they're new or in cooler temperatures. If your tire is losing air rapidly, make sure the bead is fully seated and check the sealant levels.

Punctured tubes can often be repaired with a patch kit. Remove the tube from the tire, locate the puncture, roughen the area around the puncture with the sandpaper provided, apply the glue, then apply the patch.

Most punctures are caused by sharp objects like thorns, glass, or metal shards. However, you can also get punctures from hitting potholes or curbs if your tires are underinflated.

Bicycle tire size is usually represented with two numbers, such as 700x23. The first number is the approximate outer diameter of the tire in millimeters. The second number is the width of the tire in millimeters.

REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals): REACH is a regulation of the European Union, adopted to improve the protection of human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemicals. It promotes alternative methods for the hazard assessment of substances to reduce the number of tests on animals. SVHC (Substances of Very High Concern): This is a part of REACH regulation, and these substances are ones that may have serious and often irreversible effects on human health and the environment. If a substance is identified as an SVHC, it will be added to the Candidate List for potential inclusion in the Authorization List. POPs (Persistent Organic Pollutants): POPs are toxic chemicals that adversely affect human health and the environment. They persist for long periods, accumulate in the human body, and are capable of traveling long distances. Under the Stockholm Convention, countries are encouraged to take measures to eliminate or reduce the release of POPs. PAHs (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons): PAHs are a group of over 100 different chemicals that are known to be harmful to health. PAHs in tires or any other products are generally restricted in many countries. Organotins: Organotins are a class of chemicals used as stabilizers and biocides. Some organotins are highly toxic and have a disruptive effect on hormonal function. In many regions, the use of organotins is restricted or banned. RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances): This is an EU directive that restricts the use of specific hazardous materials in electrical and electronic products. While it doesn't directly apply to bicycle tires or inner tubes, it's part of the wider regulatory environment. Nitrosamines: Nitrosamines are chemicals that can form during the rubber vulcanization process. Some nitrosamines are known to be carcinogenic. The German Institute for Occupational Safety and Health of the German Social Accident Insurance (IFA) has established guidelines for nitrosamine content in rubber products. It's important to note that these regulations and restrictions can vary by country and region. At Hartex, we are continuously monitoring updates to applicable regulations to ensure our products are safe, high quality, and environmentally responsible. Don’t hesitate to ask us if you have any questions about the regulations listed above or anything else applicable in your region!

Bicycle tires are made from several types of materials, each contributing to the tire's performance, durability, and comfort. Here are the key components and the materials typically used for each: Tread: This is the outermost layer of the tire that comes into direct contact with the road or trail. It's usually made of rubber compounds, which can vary in hardness, durability, and grip. Softer compounds provide more grip but wear out faster, while harder compounds are more durable but may offer less traction. The tread design can vary significantly depending on the intended use of the tire (e.g., smooth for road biking, knobby for off-road biking). Under-tread: Some tires include additional layers under the tread for puncture resistance. These can be made from various materials, including Kevlar or another strong, lightweight fiber, or a dense layer of rubber. Casing: The casing is the fabric foundation of the tire, extending from bead to bead. It provides the tire's basic structure and impacts its flexibility, strength, and weight. The strength and flexibility of the casing is measured in TPI (Threads Per Inch) - higher TPI gives the tire more flexibility and a smoother ride, but may be less durable, while lower TPI makes for a stiffer but more durable tire. Sidewall: The sidewall is the part of the tire that runs from the bead to the tread. It's important for protecting the tire from side impacts and contributes to the tire's overall strength and stability. It's typically made from rubber coated nylon or other fabric, and is designed to be flexible yet resistant to damage. Bead: This is the part of the tire that comes into contact with the rim. The bead ensures the tire stays securely fixed to the rim. It's typically made from a stiff material like steel or Kevlar. Steel beads are more durable and cheaper, but heavier. Kevlar beads are lighter and allow the tire to be folded, but are typically more expensive. Now let's explain the key technical terms: EPI/TPI: These stand for Ends/Threads Per Inch and refer to the density of threads in the casing. A higher EPI/TPI often means a lighter, more flexible, and more durable tire. Breaker: This is a layer of material (often Kevlar or another durable fabric) under the tread that helps protect the tire from punctures. Chafer: This is a strip of fabric placed between the tire bead and rim to protect the tire from damage due to the rim. Reflective Tape: This is a strip on the sidewall that reflects light, enhancing visibility for safer night riding. Tubeless: A tubeless tire doesn't require an inner tube. Instead, it seals directly against the rim, and it's typically filled with a liquid sealant to automatically seal small punctures. Tubeless Ready: These tires can be used with a traditional inner tube but are also designed to be used in a tubeless setup with the addition of a liquid sealant. Fat Tires: These are very wide tires (typically 4" or wider) designed for low ground pressure to allow riding on soft, unstable terrain such as snow, sand, or mud. Clinchers: These are the most common type of tire and use a bead that "clinches" to the rim. They can be used with an inner tube or in a tubeless setup. Folding Bead: This type of tire uses a flexible bead material (like Kevlar) that allows the tire to be folded. Folding tires are lighter and easier to store/transport. Casing Materials: Various materials can be used for the casing, including nylon, cotton, silk, or other fibers. The choice of material can affect the weight, flexibility, and durability of the tire. Gumwall vs. Skinwall: Gumwall tires have a sidewall that's coated in natural rubber, while skinwall tires have a thin layer of rubber over the casing, showing the casing color. Gumwalls tend to be more durable, while skinwalls are often lighter. These are the fundamental terms and components that every cyclist should understand. At Hartex Rubber, we believe that knowledge is key in choosing the right tire. Each of our products is designed with these components in mind, ensuring you get a tire that performs well and lasts long.

Proper care and maintenance of your bicycle tires and inner tubes can significantly prolong their lifespan and enhance your cycling experience. Here are some essential guidelines and tips: Regular Inspections: Check your tires before every ride for embedded glass, sharp rocks, or other debris. These can work their way through the tire over time and cause a puncture. Tire Pressure: Check your tire pressure regularly, preferably before each ride. Proper inflation can prevent unnecessary wear, provide a better ride quality, and prevent flats. Make sure to inflate your tires within the range recommended on the tire sidewall. Clean Regularly: Clean the tires with warm water and mild soap after muddy or dirty rides. This will help identify any potential issues like cuts or wear spots and can prevent the build-up of materials that could damage the tire. Rotate Tires: If you notice that one tire is wearing out faster than the other, usually the rear, consider swapping the tires. This can help ensure that they wear out more evenly and increase the overall lifespan. Storage: When you're not riding your bike, try to store it in a dry, cool place out of direct sunlight. UV rays can degrade the rubber over time. Replace Tubes With Tires: When it's time to replace your tires, consider replacing your tubes as well. Tubes can wear out and become porous over time, so a new tire with an old tube can lead to flats. Tire Sealant: If you're using tubeless tires, remember that the sealant inside them dries out over time. Check and replenish your tire sealant every 2-6 months, depending on your climate and the specific sealant you're using. Avoid Skidding: Try to avoid skidding, which wears out tires prematurely. Learn to brake effectively by applying both brakes evenly, and remember that your front brake generally provides the most stopping power. By adhering to these guidelines, you can extend the life of your bicycle tires and tubes, improve your cycling experience, and decrease the chances of experiencing a flat tire during your rides.

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to install bicycle inner tubes, tube-type tires, and tubeless tires. Installing Bicycle Inner Tubes and Tube-Type Tires: Inspect the Rim: Look for any damage on the rim tape that could puncture the tube. Also, remove any debris from the rim. Check the Tire: Inspect your tire for any cuts or embedded objects like glass or stones. Align the Tire: Align the tire and tube with the rim. Make sure to line up the tire's inflation valve with the rim's valve hole. Insert the Tube: Partially inflate the tube just enough that it takes shape but is not tight. Insert the valve through the rim valve hole, then gently nestle the tube into the tire. Mount the Tire: Starting opposite the valve, begin to press one tire bead over the rim wall. Work your way around to the valve. Repeat this process with the other bead. Check Alignment: Verify that the tube isn't pinched between the tire and the rim, which can lead to a puncture. Inflate the Tire: Inflate the tire to the pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer, typically written on the tire sidewall. Installing Tubeless Tires: Inspect and Clean the Rim: Make sure the rim is clean and undamaged. If the rim is not tubeless-ready, you'll need to apply tubeless rim tape. Install the Valve: Push the valve through the rim's valve hole and tighten the lockring. Mount One Side of the Tire: Mount one bead of the tire onto the rim, just like you would with a tube-type tire. Apply Sealant: Pour the recommended amount of tubeless sealant into the tire. Mount the Other Side of the Tire: Work the other bead onto the rim. This can be harder than with a tube-type tire as tubeless tires fit more snugly. Inflate the Tire: Use a high-volume pump or compressor to inflate the tire. You should hear a series of pops as the tire bead seats against the rim. Check the Seal: Spin and shake the wheel to distribute the sealant and check the tire for any leaks. Pitfalls to Avoid: Not Checking the Rim and Tire: Always inspect the rim and tire for damage or debris that could puncture the tube or prevent a good seal. Incorrect Alignment: Misalignment can cause the tube to be pinched between the tire and rim or prevent the tire bead from seating correctly. Overinflation: Don't inflate the tire beyond the manufacturer's recommended pressure. Skipping Sealant for Tubeless: For tubeless setups, always use sealant to help the tire bead seat correctly and to seal any small leaks. Not Checking the Fit: Always double-check the tire and tube installation before riding. If something doesn't look right, it's better to fix it before it causes a problem on the road or trail. Remember, installing tires and tubes can be challenging, especially if you're new to it. Don't hesitate to seek help from a knowledgeable friend or your local bike shop.

The correct tire pressure for bicycle tires varies widely depending on factors such as the type of bike, the weight of the rider, the tire size and design, and the riding conditions. Road bikes, with their narrow tires, typically require a higher pressure compared to mountain bikes or hybrid bikes with wider tires. For example, road bike tires might need anywhere from 80 to 130 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch), while mountain bikes might range from 30 to 50 PSI, and hybrids somewhere in between. Your weight also influences the correct tire pressure. Heavier riders generally require more tire pressure than lighter riders. Some manufacturers provide charts that suggest tire pressure based on rider weight and tire size. The riding conditions matter as well. For off-road or trail riding, a lower tire pressure provides better traction and shock absorption. On smooth pavement, a higher tire pressure can make your ride faster and more efficient. Here's how tire pressure impacts performance and comfort: Rolling Resistance: Higher tire pressure reduces the tire's rolling resistance, which can make your ride faster and more efficient on smooth surfaces. Lower tire pressures, while increasing rolling resistance, can provide better traction and control on uneven surfaces. Comfort: Lower tire pressure increases the tire’s ability to absorb shocks from bumps and rough surfaces, which can make your ride more comfortable. Higher pressures can result in a harsher ride. Traction: Lower tire pressure can increase the tire's footprint and improve traction, especially on loose or slippery surfaces. Flat Protection: Higher tire pressure can help prevent flats by reducing the chance of pinch flats, where the tube gets pinched between the tire and rim. However, too much pressure can make the tire more susceptible to punctures. Remember, these are general principles, and the ideal tire pressure can vary based on many factors. It's essential to experiment a bit to find what works best for you and your specific situation. As a starting point, look for the recommended tire pressure range printed on the side of your tire. Always use a good quality bicycle pump with a pressure gauge to ensure you're inflating your tires to the correct pressure. And check your tire pressure regularly, as it can decrease over time due to temperature changes, tiny leaks, or natural permeation of air through the tube.

A bicycle inner tube typically consists of: Tube Body: This is the main part of the tube that inflates. It's made of a rubber or synthetic material that can expand and contract while maintaining air pressure. Valve: This is the part of the tube that allows you to inflate or deflate it. The two most common types are Schrader (similar to those used on car tires) and Presta (narrower and used on many road bikes). Types of Materials Used to Make Bicycle Tubes Natural Rubber: Natural rubber tubes have excellent elasticity, allowing them to handle the variations in tire pressure that come from hitting bumps in the road. However, they are less resistant to punctures and often lose air more quickly than other materials. Butyl Rubber: This synthetic rubber is the most commonly used material for bicycle tubes due to its excellent air retention and good puncture resistance. Butyl tubes are generally heavier than those made from other materials. Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU): TPU tubes are lightweight and resistant to punctures, but they don't retain air as well as butyl rubber tubes. They are often more expensive than butyl or natural rubber tubes. Latex: Latex tubes offer lower rolling resistance and are lighter than butyl rubber tubes, potentially making them a good choice for racing or performance-oriented riding. However, they don't hold air as long as butyl rubber tubes and need to be inflated more frequently. Trade-offs Across These Types of Tubes Weight: Latex and TPU tubes are typically lighter than butyl or natural rubber tubes, which can be a benefit for performance-oriented riders. Puncture Resistance: Butyl rubber and TPU tubes typically offer better puncture resistance than natural rubber or latex tubes. Air Retention: Butyl rubber tubes hold air longer than latex or natural rubber tubes, meaning you'll need to inflate them less frequently. Rolling Resistance: Latex tubes are generally considered to have the lowest rolling resistance, which can make your ride feel smoother and potentially faster. Cost: Butyl rubber tubes are generally the least expensive, while TPU and latex tubes are usually more costly.

Bicycle tires come in a variety of types, each designed to suit a particular style of riding or type of bicycle. Here are some of the most common types: Clincher Tires: These are the most common type of tire and feature a bead that hooks onto the inside of the wheel rim. Clincher tires can be used with an inner tube or set up tubeless with a liquid sealant. Tubeless Tires: Tubeless tires don't use an inner tube and instead form an airtight seal against the rim. They're often filled with a liquid sealant that can automatically seal small punctures. Tubeless tires can provide better puncture resistance and allow you to ride at lower tire pressures for better traction and comfort. Tubular Tires: Also known as "sew-up" tires, tubular tires feature an inner tube that's fully encased within the tire. The whole tire is then glued onto a specific type of rim. Tubular tires are most commonly used in high-performance and racing scenarios due to their excellent ride feel and performance characteristics, but they can be more difficult to install and repair than other types of tires. Semi-Slick Tires: Semi-slick tires have a smooth center for low rolling resistance on straightaways, with treads on the edges for cornering grip. They're often used for city riding or cyclocross. Slick Tires: Slick tires are smooth and are designed for optimal speed and traction on paved roads. They're most commonly used on road bikes. Mountain Bike (MTB) Tires: MTB tires have large, knobby treads for maximum grip on off-road trails. They come in a variety of widths, with wider tires providing more grip and shock absorption. MTB tires can be clincher, tubeless, or tubular. Fat Bike Tires: Fat bike tires are extremely wide (often 4" or more) and are designed for riding on loose, soft surfaces like snow and sand. They provide excellent traction and stability in these conditions. Gravel Tires: Gravel tires are a middle-ground between road and mountain bike tires. They're designed to perform well on a variety of surfaces, from smooth pavement to rough gravel and dirt roads. Hybrid/Commuter Tires: Hybrid or commuter tires are designed for comfort and durability. They typically have moderate tread for good grip in a variety of weather conditions and are made to withstand the rigors of daily commuting. These are just a few examples of the variety of tire types. The right type for you will depend on your bike and the type of riding you plan to do. At Hartex Rubber, we offer a wide range of tire types to suit every kind of cyclist, from casual commuters to dedicated racers.

Directional tires, also known as asymmetric tires, are specifically designed to roll in one direction. They have a tread pattern that is intended to perform optimally when the tire is mounted to rotate a specific way. The tread pattern on directional tires is usually V-shaped or arrow-shaped, and is engineered to channel water out from under the tire in wet conditions, reducing the risk of hydroplaning. This pattern also often helps to reduce road noise for a quieter ride and provides improved stability and traction at higher speeds or during cornering. On the sidewall of a directional tire, you'll see an arrow or other marking that indicates the direction the tire should rotate when the bike is moving forward. When mounting directional tires, it's important to ensure they're installed to rotate in the correct direction. Directional tires are common in performance-oriented scenarios, such as racing or aggressive mountain biking, where the optimized tread pattern can provide a noticeable performance benefit. However, one drawback to consider is that directional tires can only be rotated front-to-rear (if the bike's wheels are the same size), and not left-to-right or vice versa, which can limit your tire rotation options compared to non-directional tires. At Hartex Rubber, our range of products includes directional tires that are engineered with high-quality materials and advanced tread designs, providing you with improved safety and performance on the road or trail.

E-bike tires are designed to handle the additional forces and speeds that come with e-bike use. Electric bikes are generally heavier and faster than regular bikes, which results in increased wear and higher forces acting on the tires. As such, e-bike tires are constructed with some special considerations: Durability and Wear: E-bike tires usually feature thicker tread and tougher casing materials to withstand the extra weight and speed, and to resist punctures. These make the tires more durable and longer-lasting. Compound: Many e-bike tires use a rubber compound that is designed for higher speeds and heavier loads. These compounds provide better grip, especially at higher speeds, and are more resistant to wear. Reinforcement: E-bike tires often have additional layers of puncture protection due to the increased risk of punctures at higher speeds. They may also have reinforced sidewalls to better support the extra weight of the bike. Speed Ratings: E-bike tires are often speed-rated to ensure they can safely handle the higher speeds that e-bikes are capable of. For example, some tires are rated for speeds up to 50 km/h (about 31 mph), which aligns with the top speed of many Class 3 e-bikes. Grip and Rolling Resistance: E-bike tires strike a balance between grip and rolling resistance. They need to grip well at higher speeds and in various conditions, but also have low enough rolling resistance to not overly drain the e-bike's battery. Certifications: Some e-bike tires have an ECE-R75 certification. This European standard indicates that the tire is approved for use on e-bikes and can safely handle speeds up to 50 km/h. In essence, while regular bike tires and e-bike tires may look similar, the e-bike tires are specifically engineered to handle the unique demands that come with electric bike use. It's always important to ensure your tires meet the requirements of your specific type of riding. At Hartex, we produce a growing range of e-bike tires to meet all these needs, ensuring safety, durability, and performance on every ride.

Thicker Tread: Some tires feature a thicker rubber tread, which provides a basic level of puncture protection. However, this can increase the tire's weight and rolling resistance. Puncture Protection Layers: Many tires feature a puncture protection layer under the tread. This layer can be made of a dense fabric such as nylon or aramid or even a rubber compound. It provides a physical barrier to prevent sharp objects from penetrating the tire. The trade-off can be increased tire weight and potentially a harsher ride quality. Tire Sealant: A liquid sealant can be added inside the tire or tube. When a puncture occurs, the sealant quickly fills and seals the hole. Sealants can be effective against small punctures but may not work on larger ones. They also need to be replaced periodically as they dry out over time. Tubeless Tires: Tubeless setups are less prone to pinch flats (a type of puncture caused by the tube getting pinched between the tire and rim). They can also be used with a liquid sealant for automatic puncture sealing. However, tubeless setups can be more difficult to install and maintain than traditional tube setups. Puncture-resistant Tubes: Some inner tubes are made from thicker rubber or feature a layer of puncture-resistant material to guard against punctures. Like with tires, this can increase the tube's weight and potentially make the ride feel less supple. At Hartex, we offer a range of tires with various puncture protection features, so you can choose the level of protection that best suits your needs and preferences. We understand that each rider might have different priorities – some may prioritize puncture resistance above all else, while others might prefer a balance between puncture protection, weight, and ride quality. Our goal is to provide options that meet the needs of all types of riders.

When it comes to bicycle tires, there are three main tire sizing systems that are used across the globe: the British (or Imperial), French, and the ETRTO (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation) systems. The differences between these systems lie in their units of measurement and the aspects of the tire they choose to measure. British System: The British system uses inches to denote the diameter of the tire. For example, a common mountain bike tire size would be written as 26 x 2.2, where the first number (26) represents the diameter of the tire in inches, and the second number (2.2) represents the width of the tire, also in inches. French System: The French system, also known as the metric system, uses millimeters to measure the width of the tire, while the diameter of the wheel is still expressed in inches. An example would be 700x23 where 700 is the outer diameter of the tire in millimeters, and 23 is the width of the tire in millimeters. ETRTO System: This system is becoming more widely used due to its precision and clarity. It expresses the width of the tire and the diameter of the wheel in millimeters. So, a tire size would be written as 37-622 where 37 is the width of the tire in millimeters and 622 is the diameter of the wheel's inner rim where the tire sits (also known as the bead seat diameter), also in millimeters.

There is often a misconception about the ETRTO diameter of tires labeled as 26", 27.5", and 29" in the British system. It's important to note that these labels are approximate indications of the outside diameter of the tire when it's mounted and inflated, not the precise bead seat diameter, which is what the ETRTO system measures. Here's a simplified explanation: 26" Tires: These are typically used on traditional mountain bikes. In the ETRTO system, a common bead seat diameter for a 26" tire is 559mm. 27.5" Tires (also labeled as 650B): These are a newer size used on some mountain bikes. Despite the larger British measurement, these tires share the same bead seat diameter (584mm) with some types of 26" tires known as 650B in the French system. 29" Tires (also labeled as 700C): Commonly used on road bikes, hybrids, and newer mountain bikes, these tires share the same bead seat diameter (622mm) as 28" tires. The '29"' label comes from the approximate outer diameter when a typical large-volume mountain bike tire is mounted and inflated on a 622mm bead seat diameter rim.

In the British system, tire sizes are often presented with the diameter first, followed by the width. Sometimes, you may also encounter a third value which indicates the height or profile of the tire, given as a fraction. However, these are generally older, less commonly used tire sizes today. Let's take an example of 26 x 1 3/8. Here: '26' is the approximate diameter of the wheel (including the tire) in inches. '1 3/8' is the width of the tire when it's inflated, also given in inches. Now, here are some examples which might confuse users: 1. 26 x 1.5 versus 26 x 1 1/2: These seem like they should be the same size, but they're not. The first is a more modern size where the width is given as a decimal, whereas the second is an older, fractional size. Although '1/2' and '0.5' are mathematically the same, the two sizes are not interchangeable. 2. 27 x 1 1/4 versus 700 x 35C: These two sizes can also be confusing. The first tire is an older road bike size given in the British system, while the second is a modern road or hybrid tire size usually seen in the French or ETRTO systems. Despite being quite similar in actual size, the two are not interchangeable due to differences in the diameter of the rim they're designed to fit. In conclusion, when choosing a tire size, it's important to know not just the diameter and width of the tire, but also to pay attention to the specific sizing system being used, and whether the width is being given as a decimal or a fraction. Always double-check to ensure you're getting a size that will fit your bike's rims and meet your cycling needs. At Hartex Rubber, we aim to simplify this process by providing clear, accurate sizing information for all our products, ensuring you get the right fit every time.

The terms "28-inch" and "29-inch" are used to represent approximate outside diameters of the tires when mounted and inflated on their respective rims. In the ETRTO system, both of these tire sizes typically have a bead seat diameter of 622mm, meaning they fit the same diameter rims. However, the main difference between these two sizes comes from the type of bike they're usually associated with, and consequently, the typical width and profile of the tires: 28-inch tires are traditionally used on touring bikes, city bikes, and some older road bikes. These tires are often narrower (e.g., 28-622 in ETRTO, equivalent to 700x28C in French) and designed for paved roads and light gravel paths. 29-inch tires, also labeled as 700C, are most commonly used on modern mountain bikes and some hybrids. These tires are typically wider (e.g., 56-622 in ETRTO, equivalent to 700x56C or 29x2.2 in British) and have treads optimized for off-road use. Now, let's discuss the advantages of the newer 27.5" and 29" sizes: 27.5-inch tires (650B): The 27.5" size offers a middle ground between the older 26" size and the larger 29" size. These tires can provide a better fit for smaller riders or those who prefer a bike that's a bit more maneuverable and nimble than a 29" but rolls better than a 26". They are also lighter and accelerate more quickly than their 29" counterparts. 29-inch tires: The main advantage of 29" tires is their ability to roll over obstacles more easily due to their larger diameter. They also provide better momentum once moving and increased contact area with the ground, which can result in better traction. However, they can feel a bit less agile and responsive compared to smaller diameter tires, and may be a bit heavier. In conclusion, there's no universally "better" size among these. The best tire size for you depends on your specific needs, the type of bike you have, and the type of riding you plan to do. At Hartex Rubber, we offer a range of sizes to suit all types of riders and bikes.

Bicycle inner tubes are designed to be versatile and flexible. They can work across a range of tire sizes because they can expand and contract to fill the space inside the tire. For example, an inner tube labelled 700 x 18-23c can fit a range of tire widths from 18 to 23mm (in the ETRTO system) or equivalent sizes in the British or French systems. The 'c' denotes a width classification in the French system, where 'a' is narrow, 'b' is mid-range, and 'c' is wide.